arcade summer 2002 Vol. 1.03 "L.E.S. is more.."
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After spotting Ambriel's work at Seven New York, we tracked her down for an interview on her various projects

 

photos by Kevin Cooley

AP: Was it a natural choice for you to become an accessory designer due to your experience as a stylist?
I wouldn't say it came from my experience as a stylist. It was a natural choice, yes, but I associate it more with childhood: growing up in the south, sewing with my grandmothers, discovering beautiful handmade pieces that my great-grandmothers did, being the daughter of an architect father, learning from my mother's gift of finding beautiful things.

AP: Actually, your pieces remind me of quilting and some women artists from the south who uses these techniques for their artwork
Must be an influence from their environment......

My grandmother on my dad's side was always cross-stitching,
She always had some cross-stitch project going on. My other grandmother did a lot of sewing too. So between the two of them, there were influences that became a passion later on that I didn't realize until I started my pieces.

AP: Did you study fashion?
(laughs) No, I studied Russian and Economics at Williams

AP: What made you fall in to this direction?
After graduating from college, I didn't really want to interview for regular jobs that everyone was going for, I wanted to be doing something more creative...

AP: When did you move to New York?
Right after college in 93, I came to New York... I had the idea that I wanted to become a costume designer. So, I basically went into the film/theater world and started doing that.

I did some off broadway stuff, and did that for about 5-6 years.

AP: What did you do after?
Then, I moved into doing styling for photoshoots, did some trend research and writing.

AP: That's how we found out about you. We saw your photographs at fashion avigator.com and then saw your site ambriel floyd.com
I love your photographs, especially the people shots in the city.
I thought that you knew how to pick the right moments...

I love that actually..... I do trendspotting photos for webzines and such, that's one thing, but the ones that I love the most are the street photographs. I have hundreds of images saved in my computer

AP: Is this an on-going project?
Yeah, I really cherish them. They are personal and yet common moments and I find the combined elements interesting. I love to watch people. I like to see how people interact with buildings, the city itself. People of all sorts, dressed in different ways, things like that. I love studying these details.

AP: Going back to the collection, when did you start working on it?
I started last summer after I left my full time job, I still style shoots but things slow down and I felt bored, so I started to make things and working on what I consider one of a kind pieces.

AP: Did you have Seven in mind?
Definitely, very early on, I showed Joseph (Quartana) one piece, he liked it and wanted to see more and later carried my first collection. Barney's came soon after and some other Japanese boutiques.

AP: That's how Tess Giberson found out about you and asked you to collaborate with her
Yeah, her husband Jon (Widman) came over and introduced himself one night and we ended up having drinks at a bar and clicked right away It seemed natural for us to collaborate and I really respect her and her work.

AP: Now that have quite a few buyers placing orders, how do you feel about meeting deadlines?
It's a lot of work, especially because my pieces require extensive handstitching. For basic assemblage, I brought in help and I like to share that workload with someone so I don't get stressed out. When I'm in production to fill orders, I constantly walk around with my cross-stitching hoop.

AP: Your pieces feel very jounalistic and intimate, where do you Get your ideas?
The heraldry and the vintage trimmings that I used were inspired by this really old book that I found at the library sale. It was called the Book of Saints which I find fascinating and the little bit of text in the piece of the descriptions. The quote is "reconcile practical life and devotion," which I extracted from it's true context, a description of the lifestyle of someone who later became a saint, and used in the pieces because I think the message, without the religious meaning and out of it's original context, is a kind of encouragement. Devotion, for me, then is about art, creating, living beautifully, things of this nature. The text, then is an invitation to integrate art with everyday life. I'm not particulary religious but that doesn't mean I don't think good things and creative forces can't come from religion, I think they do.....

AP: What about the usage of the material such as the shirting fabric + vintage trimmings?
I like to use vintage or traditional elements to create new, but somehow familiar pieces. I respond to trimmings that are older because of discoloration and fading often evoke a more personal response. They help create a sort of patina that makes things seem more like an heirloom piece than something that has been stamped in a factory. I use brass findings and chain for the same reason. I have a collection of vintage brass jewelry and each piece has darkened a little over time; for me that is the element that makes each piece beautiful.

AP: Has your pieces changed stylistically from the first collection?
The items for summer, technically fall, I basically took the previous one step futher. I've added other elements and drawings. If you look at some of Tess's (Giberson) pieces,the drawing on it are all from my trip to Berlin last year. I have a funny way of drawing, it's sort of a personal iconography, so usually when I draw things, things get pared down to almost symbols. The things that resemble a cross on Tess's clothes are derived from the cross-hatchet of windows of buildings in Berlin. That's where the reference comes from, this is the print... (shows me the original drawing) So, to answer your original question, yes, it's journalistic and most of the times, it generally comes from a very personal experience.

AP As an artist, photographer, and a designer, what has been the most influential/inspirational?
I am inspired by the rest of the world, not so much by the things I create. To say that I am inspired by something I do would be reversing the actual process. The things I do are just my translation of what is already out there, my interpretation. I watch people, I consider buildings, I am affected by the weather and by conversations, I find things. If you have a conversation with me in person, I would have a ahrd time calling myself an artist, a designer, or a photographer. I feel more like a reporter most of the time, or a story teller from a long line of story tellers.

 

 

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